What to eat, drink and do this winter in Montréal

Eat, play, get outdoors, dance and shop your way though the city… with a good pair of gloves of course.

In Montreal, November hits hard. After months of outdoor parties and festivals, hangs on terrasses (patios), we roll back the clocks, it gets dark earlier and things seem a bit grim. The truth is, there is still a lot to do in the city during the shoulder and winter months and with a little guidance, taking it all in during the quieter months, meaning less crowds and cheaper accommodation is just what some of us are looking for.

You go to Sydney to see attractions like the Opera House, the bridge and Bondi Beach whereas you go to Melbourne to really experience the city and pick up on its vibe. Montreal is very similar in that way of Melbourne. There is one attraction that is a must for me year-round and that’s Mount Royal. Without visiting the park in the heart of the city you leave by doing exactly that.

The Quartier des Spectacles (entertainment district) hosts some of the world’s largest festivals in the summer. All winter long there are shows in the 80 cultural venues dotting the area and many outdoor activities. LUMINO is a network of close to 20 interactive works spread throughout the quartier that offer a little bit of light therapy through art installations. This year LUMINO celebrates its 15th edition.

The skating rink at Esplanade Tranquille is free, bring skates and a lock (or rent) and enjoy the interactive projections on the rink that are both mesmerizing and a little dangerous…often twice a night. For an après-skate bite and cocktail head to Papito restaurant, hidden in the city’s old fur district a few minutes away.

Montreal’s mural and street art scene is a leader in the country. Missing a large festival generally means you’ve missed it for good but with the MURAL FESTIVAL the walls live on, and evolve. Take the city’s Original Mural Arts tour by Spade & Palacio which can cover close to two dozen works. We’re talking smaller hidden installations to massive 10 storey walls and a little lesson on the graffiti and street art scene in a funky borough worth exploring for a non-touristy tour. Saintlo guests can ask for a discount code on all S&P outings.

The chillier months are for being cozy inside with a nice cocktail or glass of wine or three. When nighttime is a few hours longer it means more damage can be done. Head to one of my favourite areas in the city for a little DIY wine bar crawl. Little Italy and Villeray are home to some of the best drinking halls and restaurants in the city.

Riding the Orange Métro line and getting off at Jean-Talon head to Polari Vin. This is a queer run neighbourhood spot where glasses of the good stuff and small snacks are ordered at the counter. Skip over to Wills, an old (now new) brewery, a summer favourite for the outdoor space but their interior is a lovely industrial chic spot great for winter beer, some delicious wines and cocktails. Hit up Cicchetti and Taverne Atlantic nearby and if you’re splurging, might as well finish off with dinner and a nightcap at Bar St Denis. One of my favourite restaurants in the city.

Shop on a budget while thrifting the neighbourhoods. Saint-Denis street from Roy to ave Mont-Royal has became a haven for 90’s geared-up stores, most on the east side of the street. Grab a coffee at Camas which is a café inside local favourite le Ninety. Migrate towards the Mile End for some more finds along Saint Laurent boulevard north of Laurier and take a break with an affordable chicken sandwich, chopped up by scissors on a Portuguese bun, Peruvian style with an Inca Cola at Serrano. Continue with shopping on Van Horne at Mervmatsui, a gorgeous “men’s” thrift store hidden in Outremont for everything from sports gear to Barbour jackets and loafers. Cross the pedestrian bridge to Parc Ex for the very hidden Little Shop. Tucked inside a literal row home this is an emporium for finds worthy of movie scouters and hipsters alike.

If you’ve got the energy, the party doesn’t stop in the winter. Dance the night away in the basement Chinatown favourite Sans Soleil, a very intimate dance space. Further north the VV Taverna we lost for a few years after the pandemic was just reborn. The crowd and music is so diverse, think you, your taxi driver, barista crush and their aunt on the same dance floor. Late night le Système is a queer friendly nightclub with DJ sets and a sweaty dance floor.